Introduction to Lavender
By
Tom and Madeline Wajda
Willow Pond Farm Herbs & Everlastings
Lavender is a wonderfully fragrant
woody perennial; it has over 2,500 years of recorded use as a strewing
herb, a mood tonic, a fragrance, an insect repellent, and a food
flavoring. Ancient Egyptians used it in the mummification process.
Medieval and Renaissance laundresses were called "lavenders" because
they used lavender in the storage of clean laundry. The Pilgrims
brought the plant to North America in the early 1600s; at that time,
lavender flowers sewn in a cap were thought to "comfort the brain
very well."
Varieties of Lavender
Growing Lavender
Propagating Lavender
Harvesting Lavender
Cooking with Lavender
Varieties of Lavender
There are about 28 species of lavender. Some are hardy in Zones
4-7, while others are tender and best grown in pots in those areas.
There is some confusion with common names, so it is always best
to check the botanical name when buying lavender.
The most widely grown hardy lavender is Lavandula
angustifolia (sometimes sold as L.
vera or L. officinalis and
often called 'English' lavender). There are more than a hundred
varieties of L. angustifolia, ranging
from eight inches to three feet tall, with flowers of white, pink,
blue, and purple.
The two most popular varieties are ‘Munstead’ (18 inches
tall with lilac-colored flowers) and ‘Hidcote’ (16 inches
tall with deep purple-blue flowers). Both have a sweet fragrance
and are excellent for drying for crafting. Their blossoms are produced
on flower stems eight to 10 inches long. In south-central Pennsylvania,
both varieties (and most other angustifolias)
tend to bloom in June. Willow Pond Farm’s exclusive varieties
‘Madeline Marie,’ ‘Rebecca Kay,’ and ‘Two
Amys' also have excellent second blooms in late August.
Another quite hardy species is L. x intermedia,
also known as lavandin. Among the most
popular intermedia varities are ‘Grosso,’ ‘Provence,’
‘White Provence,’ and ‘Grappenhall.’ The
result of crosses between L. angustifolia
and other species, the intermedias
are usually considerably larger than the angustifolias
(often 30 inches high with flower stems 18-24 inches long) and tend
to have more camphor in their aromas.
Tender varieties include ‘Spanish’ lavender (Lavendula
stoechas); ‘French’ lavender (L.
dentata); and ‘Fernleaf’ lavender (L.
multifida). These tender plants can be grown outside in pots
in the summer, then brought inside to a bright windowsill for the
winter. The soil in the pot should contain some sand, perlite, or
vermiculite to aid in drainage. Water when soil is dry to the touch
and fertilize every three weeks. Spider mites and white flies can
be controlled by insecticidal soap; plants should be trimmed in
the spring and fall. While these varieties are not as fragrant as
hardy lavenders, they will reward you with blooms almost year-round.
Growing Lavender
All lavenders need full sun and good drainage; they are quite drought
tolerant. Lavenders like a neutral or slightly alkaline soil (7.0-7.3
pH). For best results, test your soil, adding lime if necessary.
Heavy clay soils need the addition of sand to provide good drainage.
Alternatively, plant lavenders on a slightly raised mound. Mulch
lavenders with a two-inch layer of sand or white pebbles, which
will reflect the sunlight back into the plant and help prevent fungus
diseases. Leaving adequate spacing between plants will also help
air circulation.
Lavenders benefit from a cover of evergreen branches in the winter
and a pruning of not more than one-third of the plant in the spring.
Deer do not appear to care for the taste of lavender; in fact, some
gardeners plant lavender among other plants as a deterrent to deer.
Propagating Lavender
Lavenders do not necessarily come true from seed; propagation is
most successful when done from cuttings or by layering. For a cutting,
you will need a three- to four-inch semi-hard (not too green, not
too brown) branch. Trim the leaves off the bottom half of the cutting
and pinch the top before inserting into a rooting medium—we
have excellent results using sand.
Keep the cuttings moist (but not soggy) and in filtered light.
They root best at temperatures of 70-75 degrees. Cuttings are best
taken from May through mid-August.
Layering can be done in the spring: Bend an outside branch gently
to the ground. Leave about six inches of leaves on the growing tip.
Wound the stem slightly in the spot where you want roots, pinning
that area into the ground; then cover with soil. Stake the remaining
branch tip upright and water. If rooted by fall, cut it off from
mother plant and leave in place until spring. If not, recheck in
the spring.
Harvesting Lavender
Harvest lavender when the first bud on the flower stalk is starting
to open. Some varieties, such as ‘Hidcote,’ keep tightly
closed for some time and will allow you seven to 10 days to do your
harvesting. Others, such as ‘Croxton Wild,’ are completely
open in a day or two, which often causes them to lose their blossoms
in the drying process. To dry lavender, bind 25-75 stems with a
rubber band and hang with a paper clip in a warm, dry, dark spot.
When dry, pack away in boxes or plastic bags for craft projects
or culinary use.
Cooking with Lavender
Most people are familiar with the use of lavender in decorating
or bath and body products; however, cooking with the flowers can
also add a very interesting and complex flavor to foods. Although
fresh and dried lavender can be used in place of one another in
most recipes, the sweet, perfumed nature of fresh lavender flowers
seems particularly appropriate in desserts. While also good in sweets,
dried lavender flowers tend to have a somewhat more herbal taste—somewhat
like thyme or marjoram—and can be combined with other herbs
and spices for more savory uses, such as marinating meats, chicken,
and fish.
Lavender is also a key ingredient in Herbes de Provence, a Mediterranean
herbal blend used to season soups, vegetables, and meats.
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